Watches Are Only Half the Story

Let's try a few things differently, yeah?

I attend the Windup Watch Fair at least once a year and have been since 2022. It’s one of my favorite things to do and I try to make at least two visits over the three days that it’s there so I can go slow and soak it all in.

Windup for me isn’t something I just sort of blow through in an hour. I need to get in there, get the lay of the land, make mental notes of where everything is, then head on over. There’s some serious strategery here, folks.

There’s a pattern to my meandering and it’s usually the same one at every event. This time, on my fifth Windup, I decided to change things up.

Normally, I focus on the watches. Who’s got cool stuff, who’s got that hot piece they’re all talking about, things like that. On occasion, I’ll go talk to a watchmaker who is making that piece I know I will want and I’ll pester them for a release date. But even then it’s all about the watches.

I dropped that pattern this time. This time, I wanted to just... talk to people. Have real conversations with my fellow horology nerds. The watches got plenty of my attention, but not nearly as much as the people.

When the fair was over, I realized something. I had photographed maybe four or five watches in an arena that had hundreds around me. Instead I was much more focused on the people. This made my Windup experience much richer and more fulfilling than I’d expected and it dovetailed with the new direction for this newsletter that I talked about last year.

So here’s a slightly different twist on a Windup wrapup story - one I had to think about for a bit before I could write it.

So Whom Did I Speak With?

Some folks I spoke with, I did so intentionally. Some conversations happened totally by chance.

Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega, Lorier

Lorenzo (left) and Lauren (right) Ortega of Lorier Watches.

The names might be new to you, but the brand shouldn’t be. Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega are the people behind Lorier, the brand that makes some of my absolute favorite pieces. Right now the one that gets all the wrist time is the Cosmic Blue Astra (tragically, it’s sold out).

We chatted a bit about some of the models, discussing what’s sold out and what’s coming, as well as some of the feedback they’re getting about their pieces. One of the things I like a lot about Lorier’s pieces is the clasp on their bracelet. It’s tiny, but still manages to pack in three microadjust holes so it’s not hard to find a solid fit. I mentioned this to Lorenzo and his reaction was both funny and sadly unsurprising. Apparently they’d been getting some flak for the clasp. People want the new hotness; toolless microadjust on the fly, that sort of thing.

That’s not Lorier’s stock in trade. They’re all about the vintage look and feel, albeit made with modern materials where it makes sense. Their design language is pretty cohesive across the lineup and they stay very true to it. Asking for toolless microadjust clasps is no different to them than asking for sapphire crystals or display casebacks; it’s not what you buy a Lorier for.

Another attendee overheard part of our conversation and asked for a wrist check. I pulled back my sleeve to reveal my own Cosmic Blue Astra.

Keep doing what you’re doing, L&L.

Camille Reix, Furlan Marri

I’ve don’t believe I’ve met Camille before. She’s been with relative newcomer Furlan Marri for about a year and change and represented them at Windup SF. I think I may have spoken to her briefly at Windup in New York last year; my memory’s a bit fuzzy.

The movement in the Honey Blue flyback chronograph.

On display was their Flyback chronograph sporting a movement that’s been quietly getting some buzz in indie/microbrand circles, the AMT5100. Decorated with 18K gold specifically for the Honey Blue iteration of their chrono, the movement is richly adorned with Côtes de Genève and guilloché on some of the components. Blued screws and a blued column wheel complete the look.

Camille comes to FM from solid horological pedigree. Formerly of MB&F and Czapek & Cie, she has a Masters in Political Science from the University Bordeaux Montaigne. We had a great chat about my very first Furlan Marri piece, the Black Sector Ref 2116-A, before turning to the Honey Blue Flyback chrono on display. She was justifiably proud of the gold decoration on the AMT5100.

“It’s something they did just for us,” she said. “You can’t get that anywhere else.”

We chatted some more about the movement, swapped business cards, and promised to catch up. I definitely need to reconnect before New York.

William Brackfield and Patrick Gilbertson, Christopher Ward

Left to right on the CW side: Patrick Gilbertson, Mike France, Will Brackfield, and Olivia Blakstad

Look, let’s get this out of the way. Will’s a devious fellow who delights in my agony at how he costs me more money almost every time I see him. Seriously, the ONLY reason he didn’t cost me money at last year’s SF Windup was because I was still recovering from my Bel Canto purchase - which he was directly responsible for.

This time, it was that damnable Twelve X that has my bank balance weeping. More on that later.

Truthfully, I love talking to Will. I learn something from him every time. He’s the one that turned me onto the AMT5100 chrono movement and pointed to Furlan Marri if I wanted to see one in the metal. Every time he speaks, I pick up something new (and spend more money but let’s leave that one alone for now) and he’s a pleasure to chat with.

I spent some time speaking with Patrick Gilbertson this time around too. He’s a PR and Content Manager with CW and is my press contact there. I’ve exchanged emails with him before, but this is the first time I’ve had a chance to meet him in person.

Patrick has an awesome attitude. I professed to being new to the watch media world and admitted that CW might not get much bang (or bank) for any time or effort invested in me, but he was shaking his head before I even finished.

“No no, that’s completely alright,” he said, trying to talk as he inhaled the bag of crisps he was getting into when I walked up to him. “Sorry - this is the only food I’ve had all day,” he added as I waved off the apology. “Look we’ve all got to start somewhere, right? I’m happy to work with you. We’ll grow together.”

CW is growing in leaps and bounds, so I appreciate their willingness to work with a smaller outlet.

BTW, once Patrick and I were done chatting sales and marketing, I went over to say hello to Olivia. She’s been a staple at every Windup I’ve been at and is the one that handles a lot of the hard work as CW’s Partnerships & Events Manager. Thanks for the swag, Olivia, much appreciated.

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Okay, this post got a bit longer than I expected and I’m just a bit over halfway done. I spoke to a few more people that I’ll do a followup post on in a week.

It’s 22:30 PST in California, 05:30 GMT as I finish writing this. Cheers and happy Wednesday.